Issue 24 —
Picking up on the eclectic historic references that have been a feature of fashion collections for the last couple of seasons, VMAN seizes the timely opportunity to devote its winter issue – and spring preview- to the trend for a bit of retro culture in current fashion parlance. Taking the form of ‘The Decades’ issue, this manifests itself as, among other things, a fashion feature that catalogues current looks according to the decade that they reference. It’s the 1930’s at Ralph Lauren, the 1960’s at Prada, the 1970’s at Gucci, and so on…
But, VMAN takes it a lot further. Drawing on ideas about ‘the archive’ that have been knocking about in contemporary art for a while, it offers a sumptuous series of shoots tracing the language of very contemporary menswear as far back as the 1890’s. Using everything from faux vintage illustration to recreations of history that border on costume drama, it’s a delightful and fulfilling exercise in a creative concept consummately realised. In amongst so many sumptuous shoots, however, it really is hats off to Matthew Scriven’s shoot, directed by Tom Jarrold, that mimics the work of the turn-of-the-century pre-cinema pioneer Eadweard Muybridge to showcase athletic wear; the perfect marriage of form and content.
But, have no fear VMAN is anything but nostalgic and the issue also features a series of incisive articles on the rising stars of the year so far. In amongst the notable talent to make it onto VMAN’s barometer of future fame are British actor Jeremy Irvine, making his debut in Spielberg’s big screen ‘War Horse’ and Brady Corbet who has soared straight into art house cult status. On the music front Christopher Owens and John Maus get a similar treatment. And Hedi Slimane’s signature camera style is used liberally throughout to capture a series of poignant portraits of stars about to happen.
As always, all this comes as part of a full menu of content that delivers on all fronts, from the appetisers at the start to the dessert at the finish.